Don’t Let Termites Eat You Out of House and Home!

Springtime in the Southeast isn’t just for allergy sneezes – it’s termite swarming season, and these silent, saw-toothed wood-chompers can wreck a house faster than you can say “pass the bug spray.” Termites cause over $5 billion in U.S. property damage every year, and your home’s wooden frame might be on the lunch menu. But don’t panic – knowledge is power (and humor can help, too). Think of termites as tiny freeloaders at your family bar-b-que – only instead of hot dogs, they snack on lumber. Understanding how they work and where to watch for them means you can outsmart these “silent destroyers” before they level your living room.

Termite Biology and Nesting Habits

Termites are eusocial insects (like ants or bees) with a strict caste system. Each colony has a king and queen (the only reproducers) plus workers (wood-munchers) and soldiers (jaw-armed protectors). Workers are basically blind, light-hating soft-bodies whose job is to collect wood and feed the whole colony. Subterranean termites (the most common kind in the Southeast) live underground in enormous colonies (hundreds of thousands to millions of individuals) and need moist soil. They build mud tubes – pencil-thin tunnels of earth and saliva – as secret highways to keep from drying out when they travel from soil into your house. Drywood termites, by contrast, don’t need soil; they can nest entirely inside dry wood (e.g. attic beams or furniture) and will actually seal off their entry holes. One notorious invasive type, the Formosan subterranean termite, can chew through a 2×4 faster than a kid eats cake – up to a foot of wood a month!

Termites feed exclusively on cellulose – the wood and paper in your home – thanks to gut microbes that break it down. If your house is made of wood and you live in a warm, humid region, you’re basically living in termite high-rise: U.S. extension experts note that subterranean termites are found in every state (except Alaska) but are most abundant in the southern and southeastern United States. In fact, experts estimate Americans spend $2 billion per year dealing with termite control and damage repairs. Clearly, these little guys are a big deal down here!

Termite Life Cycle

Termites grow up in stages. A queen lays tiny eggs that hatch into juvenile nymphs. Most nymphs shed their wings and become workers or soldiers. Workers do the foraging and feeding; soldiers have the big pincers to fend off enemies. When a colony matures, it produces winged reproductives called alates (swarmers). Alates leave the nest in cloud-like swarms (usually on warm, calm days in spring), mate, shed their wings, and pair up to become the new king and queen of a daughter colony. (You might recall these as flying termites – they look like brown ants with equal-size wings. After landing, each couple loses its wings and starts excavating a new nest.) Most winged termites never succeed in starting a colony – predators and dehydration kill many – but a few do, and decades-long colonies can grow from just a single pair. In short: thousands of termites can emerge from a small nest and, if unchecked, quietly multiply into a monster colony in your walls.

The Types of Damage Termites Can Cause

Termites gnaw wood from the inside out, often leaving only a thin shell behind. Over time, they can weaken support beams, floor joists, walls and ceilings. The result might be sagging floors, popped nails, cracked drywall or buckling trim. As our pest-control colleagues warn, these "hard, saw-toothed jaws" chew wood so relentlessly that they “can collapse a building entirely”. In the photo above you can see termite workers munching through rotted wood and wood pulp under a foundation – the framing looks like Swiss cheese!

Termites cause damage in a few signature ways:

• Honeycombed wood. Workers tunnel through wood grain, creating maze-like galleries and often eating the softer spring growth first. Sometimes only the paint or surface layer is left. If you tap on an infested floor or beam, it might sound hollow.

• Termite droppings (frass). Drywood termites push out tiny pellets of feces as they tunnel, forming little piles under their exit holes. These pellets are oval, about 1 mm long, and six-sided with rounded end – picture a dusty coffee-ground pile of “salt-and-pepper” crumbs. (Note: Subterranean termites generally do not leave visible droppings. They incorporate all their waste into the mud tubes and tunnels. So finding frass means drywood termites, but its absence doesn’t rule out subterranean.)

• Mud tubes on foundations. Look for pencil-sized muddy tunnels up your foundation walls or in crawlspace. These tubes (made of damp soil, wood bits and saliva) serve as humid walkways. Spotting even a small tube is a red flag of subterranean termites.

• Swarmers and shed wings. Seeing winged termites or finding piles of wings on windowsills or floors is a sure sign a colony is nearby. Termite swarmers hold their wings straight out (unlike ants), then twist them off after landing. If you find discarded wings where they light, act fast – it means a mature colony has been reproducing inside or near your home.

• Damage to wood structures. Termites can damage exposed wood like sill plates, porch steps, fence posts, decks, or even stored lumber and firewood. Any part of a home where wood touches moist soil (including crawlspace braces and wood sill plates) is at risk.

In short, termites quietly turn your house into a termite condo until one day you have saggy floors or even a collapsing wall. That’s why early detection is so important.

Recognizing Signs of Termite Damage

Knowing what to look (and listen) for can catch an infestation before it’s too late. Termite damage often doesn’t look dramatic – it’s hidden – but there are classic clues:

• Hollow-sounding wood. Knock on wood beams or studs. If it sounds hollow or papery, termites may have eaten the inside. Carpet or laminate floors might bubble or feel springy as the substrate is eaten away.

• Buckling or warping floors and paint. Subterranean termites often cause blistering or ridges in wood flooring as they undermine the subfloor. Exterior paint or stucco can also bubble if termites are chewing the wood behind it.

• Mud tubes. The presence of mud tubes on foundations, crawlspaces or basement walls is an unmissable sign. These silty tunnels are basically a dead giveaway of subterranean activity – termites rarely build them unless they’re actively infesting the wood.

• Piles of wings. After a swarm, you may find discarded wings near windows, doors, or light. Brown, brittle wings in clusters mean swarmers came through and mated somewhere in the structure.

• Frass pellets. For homes in very dry climates (or upper attics), look for little piles of six-sided frass under attic rafters or wooden beam. These are telltale of drywood termites. Note: If you see no frass, it doesn’t mean you’re safe – subterranean termites leave no visible feces, having packed it into their mud tubes.

• Moisture indicators. Termites love moisture, so areas of persistent damp (like around leaky water heaters, AC units or plumbing) often coincide with termite spots. Drywall near leaks may soft-en as if waterlogged, or you might see tiny holes as termites bore through sheetrock to reach wood.

In one study, experts found that having termite signs is often much harder than it sounds because the bugs hide out in dark cavities. For example, Terminix warns homeowners that termite infestation signs differ by construction and region – a wooden house might show sagging floorboards or hollow wood, while a brick home may give away termites through mud tunnels on walls. The key takeaway is: If something wood-like starts looking or sounding weird, investigate before it gets worse.

Susceptible Areas Around Your Home

Termites are resourceful – they’ll exploit any flaw that gives them wood, water, and shelter. In Southeastern homes, keep an eye on:

• Wood-to-soil contacts. Anywhere wood touches earth is a potential termite bridge. This includes fence posts, deck supports, porch steps, latticework, siding/trim close to ground, and even stacked firewood or lumber piled against the foundation. Any wood elements should be at least 6 inches above soil. (Yes, that sounds like overkill, but it really cuts down on termite access.) For brick or stone foundations, termite screens or metal “shields” can also be installed to block entry routes.

• Mulch and landscaping. Keep mulches, wood chips and leaf litter a few feet away from your foundation. Mulch holds moisture and can act like a bridge over your termiticide barrier. Researchers note that mulch right up against the house can actually let termites bypass a chemical barrier. If you love mulch, pull it back to create a 12–18″ bare zone around the foundation. Similarly, don’t let vines, trellises or dense shrubs hug the house; they can hide tunnels and keep the wall damp.

• Moisture hotspots. Termites are water magpies. Any area where water pools or wood stays wet is a favorite termite hangout. Check crawlspaces, basements, and under sinks or appliances for leaks or standing water. Make sure gutters and downspouts direct water well away from the house. Install gutter extensions or splash blocks. Fix leaky pipes and AC condensers immediately; even a slow drip can create humidity that attracts termite. In crawlspaces, good ventilation (and a vapor barrier over bare soil) will keep humidity down. If your house has a notorious “wet spot,” those beams probably aren’t far behind it.

• Basements and slabs. In slab-on-grade foundations, termites can enter through cracks, plumbing penetrations or expansion joints. These should be sealed with foam or concrete. Termites will also exploit stucco gaps at the foundation line. For raised homes, insulate and encapsulate the crawlspace floor and walls, and leave an access panel for inspections.

• Exterior wood. Decks, porch posts, fence gates, or any exposed wood are vulnerable. Pressure-treated or naturally termite-resistant woods (cedar, redwood) help, but even treated wood can fail after years. Regularly inspect the bottoms of exterior wooden posts, railings, and deck joists for mud tubes or damage. Replace any rotten lumber promptly.

• Hidden wood piles. Don’t stash firewood, lumber or tree stumps next to your house (or worse, under the porch or in the crawlspace). Termites happily tunnel from these reservoirs of food straight into your walls. Stack firewood at least 20 feet from the house.

In short, think like a termite: any spot where wood meets water meets warm shelter is a potential termite colony site. Trim back vegetation, seal gaps (around utility lines and crawl vents), and keep an eye on building perimeters. Simple exclusion and moisture control are powerful IPM tools.

DIY Termite Control (Integrated Pest Management)

If a termite outbreak has you worried, you can certainly take some do-it-yourself steps to reduce risk – especially if you catch them early. Preventive IPM (Integrated Pest Management) means combining several tactics: exclusion, habitat modification, monitoring, and targeted treatments. Here are some homeowner-friendly strategies:

• Remove or treat vulnerable wood. Apply borate-based wood preservatives (like Bora-Care or Tim-bor) on exposed or basement wood beams and sill plates. Borate salts penetrate the wood and act as a slow-acting stomach poison for termites (and most other wood-infesting insects). In a UT Knoxville study, wood joists treated with Bora-Care remained untouched by termites – they literally stopped tunneling at the treated zone. So during renovations or on stored lumber, a coat of borate can turn the wood into a termite “bad-taste” zone.

• Set out termite monitors/baits. Commercial termite bait systems (DIY versions exist, though professional stations are more effective) use wood or cellulose blocks laced with insect growth regulators (IGRs). The idea is that workers collect this “food” and bring it back to the colony. Over time the whole colony is eliminated. Homeowner kits like Exterra or Advance contain stakes you bury in the soil around your home. Check them regularly for activity (yellowing or removal of the bait). However, keep expectations realistic: like Dr. Karen Vail notes, “Do-it-yourself options … are available, but read the product information carefully and understand the limitations.” Baiting works best as part of a professional program, but it can act as an early-warning system.

• Beneficial nematodes. Some gardeners release predatory nematodes (Steinernema spp.) into the soil around affected areas. These microscopic worms actively seek out termites and paralyze them with bacteria, eventually killing them. They can provide some reduction in surface termite populations. Nematodes require moist soil, so water the area before application. They aren’t a stand-alone solution, but they are a neat biological IPM trick.

• Fix moisture and structural issues. A huge part of termite IPM is eliminating attractants. As mentioned, fix any leaky plumbing, reduce standing moisture, improve drainage, and ventilate crawlspaces. Clean out clogged gutters and use downspout extensions. Trim back any plants or mulch up against the house. Removing cellulose debris – firewood piles, old form boards, cardboard on the floor of a basement – makes your property less inviting. Basically, turn your home from a termite theme park into a termite desert.

• Physical barriers and shields. In new construction or renovations, consider installing metal termite shields on top of foundations and between wooden levels. Hardware cloth or stainless-steel mesh can block termites from sneaking up through slab pipes. There are also new composite insulation products and barrier membranes that resist termite penetration. These are more preventive than reactive, but worth investigating for builds or remodels.

Remember: while savvy DIY steps (and punctual maintenance) can greatly reduce your risk, termites are tough customers. Many experts emphasize that mere homeowner remedies (like spot sprays or orange oil) often fall short. National Pest Management experts bluntly warn that “termites are not a pest that can be effectively controlled with do-it-yourself measures”pestworld.org. DIY controls are great for management and prevention, but if an infestation is suspected, you’ll probably need professional help to truly eliminate it.

Expert Tips from Dr. Karen Vail

When in doubt, listen to the experts! Dr. Karen Vail of the University of Tennessee (an Urban Entomologist) reminds homeowners to stay vigilant but calm. “Take your time and look at all of your options… they’re not going to eat your house in a day,” she quips. In practice, that means:

• Annual inspections. Don’t wait until termites punch holes in your floor to call an inspector. Dr. Vail and industry pros recommend an annual professional inspection for termite. Termites often stay hidden for a long time, so catching them early is key. Make it part of spring or fall home maintenance.

• Research your termite pro carefully. Dr. Vail suggests homeowners thoroughly vet any pest control company. Check the Better Business Bureau or state licensing board, ask friends or neighbors for references, and look at online reviews. When you speak to a company, ask specifically about their termite plan: What products do they use? Do they offer baiting systems, liquid treatments, or both? A trustworthy pro will be transparent about methods and explain how they’ll tackle termites. Getting a second opinion or showing the inspector any evidence (like wing debris or drill holes) is also wise.

• Licensing and certification. In Tennessee (and most states) pest control operators must have a license to apply termiticides. Many have additional credentials (like ACE – Advanced Technician Certification). Make sure the technician you hire is certified specifically for termite treatments, not just general pest control. (Dr. Vail’s program even offers certified technician training, reflecting how specialized termite work can be.)

• Written contract with warranty. Because termite work is complex, professionals often provide a multi-year warranty. Look for a contract that guarantees control and annual re-inspections (for example, some use the NPMA 2-year or 5-year termite bond). Dr. Vail’s tips note that termite damage typically isn’t covered by regular homeowners insurance, so getting that professional warranty is a must. Read the fine print: know what is covered and for how long.

• Modern methods. In today’s termite game, cutting-edge products mean a better outcome. Ask if the company uses proven systems like baits or transfer-effect termiticides (see next section). Dr. Vail points out that a combination of tactics is common. One pro tip: if a company only offers cheap DIY aerosol sprays or mothballs, run the other way – those won’t stop subterranean termites. A good termite specialist should talk science, not scare tactics.

Follow Dr. Vail’s advice: inspect yearly, do your homework on the company, and remember that patience and persistence win. As she says, the termites are relentless but so are we — with the right help, your house will stay off the menu.

Professional Treatment Options

When prevention isn’t enough or termites are already established, professional treatments are often the fastest solution. Here are three leading systems that pros use in Tennessee and across the Southeast:

• Sentricon® Colony Elimination System with Always Active™ (Dow/Corteva). This advanced baiting system is a top choice among professionals due to its proactive approach. Unlike traditional baiting methods that rely on detecting termite activity before switching to bait, Sentricon with Always Active™ stations come pre-loaded with Recruit® HD bait from day one. That means as soon as termites encounter a station, they begin feeding on the bait and sharing it with the colony. The active ingredient, noviflumuron, is an insect growth regulator (IGR) that disrupts molting, gradually killing the entire colony, including the queen. Because it works continuously, there's no gap between monitoring and elimination. The system is environmentally friendly, non-invasive to your landscaping, and proven effective in eliminating entire termite colonies in a matter of months.

• Trelona® ATBS Annual Bait Stations (BASF). Trelona® ATBS is another standout in the baiting world. These stations are strategically placed around your home and pre-loaded with a powerful insect growth regulator, novaluron. Termites feed on the bait and transfer it to nestmates, disrupting their molting process and causing colony-wide collapse. What makes Trelona® unique is its annual service schedule—after installation, professionals check the stations once a year, making it more convenient for homeowners. Trelona® ATBS offers year-round protection and is a great low-disruption solution for homeowners who want long-term peace of mind without frequent maintenance.

• Termidor® HE High-Efficiency Termiticide (BASF). This is a liquid barrier treatment and one of the most trusted termite termiticides in history. Its active ingredient, fipronil, is known for its “Transfer Effect” technology: termites pick up the chemical on their bodies and spread it to other nestmates through social contact. A technician digs shallow trenches along the foundation, drills slab or concrete as needed, and applies Termidor HE into the soil. The high-efficiency formula uses 50% less water and allows faster application. Once applied, termites unknowingly walk through the treated soil, bringing the lethal agent back to their colony. BASF reports nearly 100% control within three months, and the treatment provides long-lasting protection—often with warranties of five to ten years.

Each of these professional systems has strengths. Sentricon with Always Active is a discreet, proactive solution. Trelona® ATBS offers low-maintenance annual checks. Termidor HE delivers fast knockdown and long-term defense. A qualified pest control professional can recommend the best fit based on your home’s structure, infestation severity, and environmental factors.

Choosing a Termite Professional

Finally, when it’s time to call in the cavalry, here’s what to look for in a termite specialist:

• Licensing and experience. Make sure the company and its technicians are state-licensed for termite work. In Tennessee, that means passing a pesticide applicator test. Many reputable firms also have their techs certified through programs like the NPMA’s ACE (Advanced Certified Entomologist) termite track. Ask how many termite jobs they do per year – you want specialists, not a general bug spray guy.

• Reputation and references. Check online reviews and the BBB. Ask friends/neighbors who they use. Dr. Vail specifically advises asking for referrals and discussing previous termit. A good company should cheerfully provide past customer contacts. Also, during the initial inspection, don’t hesitate to ask questions: have the tech show you where termites (or damage) are, and ask why they recommend a particular treatment. If an inspector is vague or evasive, that’s a red flag.

• Inspection report and contract. You should get a written report after the inspection, detailing any evidence found and the proposed treatment. Read the contract carefully. It should spell out the service (baits vs liquid vs both), guarantee length, and any retreatments included. Pay special attention to any warranty or maintenance plans. Dr. Vail reminds us: termite damage isn’t covered by, so you want that long-term bond or warranty. Many pros include 1–5 years of follow-up inspections in their deal.

• Treatment method and products. Ask what technology they’ll use. Do they use modern systems like Sentricon, Advance/Trelona or Termidor? Companies that invest in up-to-date solutions are usually more reliable. For example, be wary if a contractor only offers “orange oil injections” or attic foggers – these may kill a few scouts but won’t wipe out a colony. Instead, look for someone who can explain how their approach (e.g. bait stations or termiticide barrier) will eradicate the colony. If a company simply quotes you a spray-can price, ask if that’s a one-time quick fix or a full termite protocol.

• Guarantee and follow-up. Professional termite work should come with a guarantee of effectiveness. Many termite contracts include annual inspections at no extra charge as part of the package. Confirm that your home will be re-checked regularly, because termites can re-infest. Also ensure the pro will return to re-treat if you see any new activity during the warranty period. A solid local company stands by its work – if you doubt anything, remind them of their promised guarantee.

In short: do your homework on the helpers. As one expert noted, even if your inspector says “you have termites,” you have every right to ask to see actual evidence (bring a flashlight or your phone!). A good specialist will welcome questions and happily show you the tubes, damage or active termites on camera. You should feel confident in their credentials, not rushed into signing. With termites, it pays to be picky. The right choice now can save thousands of dollars later.

Stay vigilant, laugh a little, and termite-proof your castle!