Groundhogs in the Southeast: A Homeowner’s Guide

Introduction

Ever stroll into your backyard, coffee in hand, and notice a new crater where your lawn used to be? Perhaps your prized tomato plants look like they went through a midnight salad buffet. If you’re a homeowner in the Southeastern U.S., you might have an uninvited guest – the groundhog. These furry diggers (also known as woodchucks or, charmingly, “whistle pigs”) are common in our region and can turn a peaceful yard into their personal playground. In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about groundhogs: from their basic biology and burrowing habits to the damage they cause and how to deter them. And don’t worry – we’ll keep it professional but light-hearted, because if we don’t laugh, we might just cry over our ruined gardens. Let’s dive in (not literally into a groundhog hole, please).

Groundhog Basics: What Are These Furry Digging Machines?

A groundhog (woodchuck) happily munching on vegetation in a Southeast backyard. These chunky rodents are herbivores that can weigh up to 14 pounds, making them the heavyweight champions of the squirrel family.

Let’s start with the basics. Groundhogs (Marmota monax) are essentially giant ground squirrels – the largest members of the squirrel family in North America, in fact. An average adult groundhog in the Southeast might measure around 16 to 27 inches long (including a stubby 6-7 inch tail) and weigh anywhere from 5 to 12 pounds, though some heavyweight champs can push 14 pounds in prime conditions. Males tend to be a bit larger than females, but unless you plan on asking one to step on a scale, you probably won’t notice.

Appearance and Diet: Groundhogs are stout, brownish rodents with grizzled fur that often has a hint of reddish-cinnamon. They’ve got chubby cheeks, strong claws, and ever-growing incisors (more on those teeth later). Despite the famous tongue-twister, woodchucks do not actually chuck wood – but they will chow down on just about any vegetation in sight. Groundhogs are herbivores with a taste for greenery. Their diet is dominated by plants: think grasses, clover, wildflowers, and just about any green leafy vegetation they can get. They have a particular love for nutritious goodies like beans, peas, carrots, and alfalfa – meaning your vegetable garden is basically an all-you-can-eat buffet. They’ll also snack on fruits and bark occasionally, and maybe a grub or insect here and there, but plants are their true love. If you catch one in the act, you might see it sitting up on its haunches, happily munching away like a kid in a candy store – a candy store full of your azaleas and lettuce.

Behavior: Groundhogs are mostly diurnal (daytime active) critters. In fact, during spring and early summer, they often do their feeding in the middle of the day, taking their sweet time basking in the sun between meals. Once the Southern summer heat kicks in, these guys switch their schedule to early mornings and late afternoons/evenings (a fancy word for this is crepuscular) to avoid the hottest part of the day. Can you blame them? Nobody wants to do heavy yard work under the Alabama midday sun – not even a groundhog. Despite their roly-poly build, groundhogs can move quickly over short distances. They are also surprisingly good swimmers and climbers – yes, you might spot one clambering up a low tree branch or doggy-paddling across a creek if it means escaping a threat. When alarmed, they often emit a high-pitched whistle (hence the nickname “whistle pig”), alerting all their groundhog buddies in the area that you’ve come out onto the porch. Generally, though, they’re loners most of the year, preferring a solitary life in their burrow… until romance season arrives.

Burrowing Habits: The Underground Architects

If groundhogs had business cards, their title would be “Professional Excavator.” These animals are born to dig. A groundhog’s burrow is more than just a hole in the ground – it’s an underground home complex with multiple rooms and exits (an open-floor plan, if you will).

Burrow Structure: A typical groundhog burrow can stretch 25 to 50 feet in length and run about 3 to 6 feet deep underground. (Some overachiever groundhogs have been found digging tunnel systems up to 100 feet long – clearly, they didn’t get the memo about not overdoing it.) These burrows usually have multiple entrances. There’s a main entrance – often very easy to spot because of the mound of excavated dirt, almost like a little porch, in front of it. Then there are one or more hidden “emergency exits”: smaller holes tucked under bushes, sheds, or rocks with no tell-tale dirt pile. A groundhog always likes to have a back door to escape a pursuing dog or curious human. Inside the burrow, they create separate chambers for different purposes: there’s a cozy nest chamber for sleeping and raising young, a separate pantry area (okay, more like just a spot to stash some extra snacks), and even a latrine section for, well, doing what groundhogs gotta do. It’s basically the rodent version of a multi-room studio apartment.

Where They Like to Dig: In the Southeast, groundhogs prefer to dig their burrows in well-drained soil (they’re not fans of swampy, lowland muck) and often choose spots along open fields, pastures, or yard edges that border woodlandsanimalia.bio. That gives them plenty of nearby food and some cover. Around homes, they are notorious for tunneling under sheds, decks, porches, and other structures that provide a nice roof over their head (from a groundhog’s perspective). If you have a detached garage or an old barn by a field, that’s basically a welcome sign. They’ll also burrow in gardens or flowerbeds, especially if those areas are near an edge of cover (like a fence row or brush pile). Groundhogs in the Southeast love areas where a manicured lawn meets a wild, brushy boundary – it’s the best of both worlds (salad bar in front, safety cover in back).

A note on “landscaping”: When a groundhog digs, it can move an impressive amount of soil. All that dirt has to go somewhere – usually right outside the main entrance in a big fan-shaped mound. So if you see a new pile of dirt against your foundation or next to the toolshed, and a hole about 10 inches across, you might be looking at a groundhog’s front door. They’re not exactly tidy contractors, but they are effective. Those strong claws and stout arms can dig and push dirt with surprising power. Think of groundhogs as the backhoe you never knew you hired.

Life Cycle: From Spring Fling to Winter Snooze

Groundhogs lead a life of two extremes: feasting and flirting in the warm months, sleeping it off in the cold months. Let’s break down the groundhog calendar:

Mating and Babies: Groundhogs are solitary for most of the year, but come late winter – right around the time we’re all watching a certain groundhog predict the weather in early February – they start to get social. Males typically emerge from hibernation in February (a bit earlier in milder Southern areas) and begin seeking out females for mating. By March, love is in the air (or underground, rather). Despite their cuddlly appearance, groundhogs have a rather no-nonsense courtship. They’ll pair up briefly in early spring to mate, and then the male beats a hasty retreat – heading back to his own burrow or bachelor life, leaving mama groundhog to handle the rest. (No Father of the Year awards here.)

After a roughly 31-33 day gestation, female groundhogs give birth to a litter of 2 to 6 pups (4 on average) in April in much of the Southeast. These newborns are blind, hairless, and completely dependent on their mother. They stay hidden in the cozy burrow nest for about 6-7 weeks, nursing and growing fur. By late spring or early summer, the young emerge from the burrow for the first time – and promptly begin eating everything in sight under mom’s supervision. Groundhog mothers only raise one litter per year (unlike rabbits or mice that have multiple rounds of young), so she puts all her effort into these pups. By the time they’re 2-3 months old (around mid-to-late summer), the young groundhogs strike out on their own. They wander off to find a territory, sometimes traveling a few hundred yards away to set up a new burrow of their own. They won’t be ready to breed until the following year, but they’re fully capable of digging and surviving solo by the end of their first summer.

Active Seasons: Groundhogs are busy from spring through early fall, packing on weight. In the Southeast, they enjoy a long growing season with plenty of food. By late September or October, as the temperatures start to drop (at least a little, even in the South), groundhogs begin to dial back their activity. Hibernation is calling. Groundhogs are one of the few true hibernators in our region – they actually slow their metabolism and sleep deeply for months. Typically by late October or early November, most groundhogs have sealed themselves into their burrows to hibernate. In warmer parts of the Southeast, this timeline can vary – a particularly mild winter might shorten their hibernation a bit, but generally they still take a long winter nap. During hibernation, their heart rate and breathing plummet, and they live off the fat reserves they built up from all that summer feasting. They do not emerge or eat at all in this period. (Imagine polishing off your Thanksgiving leftovers and then sleeping straight through New Year’s – that’s basically a groundhog’s winter plan.)

By February or early March, groundhogs start waking up and crawling out of their burrows, slimmed down (they can lose 25-30% of body weight over winter) and probably very hungry. The cycle begins anew: eat, mate, raise young, munch more, then sleep. In the relatively mild Southeast, groundhogs often have a head start on spring; you might spot one poking out of its hole on a sunny late January day as a sort of “is it spring yet?” test. But once they fully emerge, it’s game on – gardens beware.

Lifespan: In the wild, groundhogs typically live around 4-5 years. Some may live longer (up to 6-8 years is not unheard of) if they avoid predators and cars. Predators in our region include hawks, owls, foxes, coyotes, bobcats, and dogs, which especially threaten young groundhogs. A savvy adult usually stays within a quick dash of its burrow (they rarely stray more than 150 yards from home base), which helps them survive. Many groundhogs, unfortunately, meet their end trying to cross roads or through unwelcome encounters with humans (via trapping or other control measures). So if you have a groundhog living under your shed, odds are it’s a relatively young one, and it’s laser-focused on two things: eating and digging – both of which bring us to the next topic.

Damage to Yards and Homes: The Dark Side of Groundhog Residency

Those large incisors aren’t just for show – a groundhog’s bite can gnaw through wood, plastic, and even underground cabling. If it looks like this critter has an attitude, it’s because he’s eyeing your garden like a free lunch.

Groundhogs might be cute in a pudgy kind of way, but when it comes to property damage, they can be real troublemakers. Ask any gardener who’s lost a whole row of beans overnight or a homeowner who found a section of their foundation mysteriously sunken. Here are the main types of damage groundhogs can cause:

• Garden and Landscape Destruction: Groundhogs are basically living lawnmowers – except they’re not as neat and they definitely don’t stick to the lawn. They will devour vegetables, herbs, flowers, and even decorative plants. One day you have a flourishing cabbage patch; the next, it’s groundhog brunch. They have a particular love for things like tomatoes, lettuces, beans, and squash. If you notice big chunks missing from your produce or flower heads mysteriously nibbled off, a groundhog might be to blame. Many Southeastern homeowners know the anguish of finding nearly ripe tomatoes or prized flowers eaten by a woodchuck. Unlike deer that tend to nibble and move, a groundhog might sit in one spot and methodically mow down everything around it before waddling home for a nap. They can also chew the bark off young fruit trees or ornamentals, which can damage or even kill the plant. In short, if it’s green and grows, a hungry groundhog will likely sample it.

• Burrowing and Holes: All that excavating leads to piles of dirt and gaping holes in your yard. Aside from being an eyesore on your manicured lawn, these holes (which are often 10-12 inches in diameter) are tripping hazards for people and pets. You or your dog could twist an ankle in a hidden groundhog hole. The mounds of dirt can smother the grass beneath them, creating bald patches. And if they burrow near tree roots, sidewalks, or driveways, the digging can cause shifting or damage over time. One of the most disconcerting sights is a burrow entrance right next to your home’s foundation or under a concrete slab of a porch or shed. Those tunnels can extend far and invite water flow or instability, which leads us to the next (and perhaps biggest) concern.

• Foundation and Structural Damage: Can a little groundhog really threaten a big solid house? Potentially, yes. Groundhogs often dig along foundations for the shelter it provides. These burrows near a foundation can redirect water to flow underneath your home, causing soil erosion under the foundation. Over time, this erosion can lead to settling or cracks in the foundation. Imagine a slow leak undermining the ground under your house – not good. In extreme cases, if a groundhog burrows under load-bearing portions of a structure (like the supports of a deck, or a slab), the lack of soil support could even lead to sagging or collapse. Signs of groundhog-related foundation trouble might include unexplained cracks in the basement wall, a floor that’s suddenly uneven, doors or windows that stick, or water seeping into your basement or crawl space when it never did before. While such severe damage isn’t the norm, it’s a risk if a burrow is left unchecked near your house. At the very least, those tunnels and the critter living in them are unwelcome houseguests, and you’ll want to evict them before they throw a underground house party.

• Chewing on Structures and Cables: Remember those ever-growing teeth? Groundhogs must chew to keep them in check. They mostly chew plants, but they won’t hesitate to gnaw on other materials if the mood strikes. There are reports of groundhogs chewing on wooden sheds, fencing, and even plastic sprinkler lines or rubber hose. Some particularly mischievous groundhogs have been known to chew on pipes and wires that they encounter while burrowing. (Yes, imagine your internet goes out because a groundhog treated your cable line like a licorice rope – it happens!). Their chewing knows no bounds, and while they’re not as destructive as, say, a beaver on a mission, they can definitely damage outdoor fixtures, garden irrigation, or insulation around underground cables. If you notice gnaw marks on wood or wiring low to the ground, you might have a groundhog with a DIY streak.

In summary, groundhogs can cause a laundry list of problems: crop damage, torn-up yards, undermined structures, and general chaos in a once-peaceful garden. They’re not malicious – they’re just being groundhogs – but that’s cold comfort when you twist your ankle in a hole or find your petunias decimated.

Recognizing Groundhog Damage: Signs to Look For

How do you know if a groundhog is the culprit behind yard damage? After all, the Southeast has plenty of other wildlife that might nibble plants or dig holes (we’re looking at you, moles, voles, and rabbits). Here are some tell-tale signs that point to a groundhog infestation:

• Large Burrow Holes: Groundhog burrow entrances are usually large, round holes about 10 to 12 inches in diameter. These will often be in the ground (as opposed to a hole in a tree or above-ground structure) and typically have a pile of fresh dirt nearby. Common spots include along foundations, under the edge of a shed or deck, near fence lines, or in the middle of a field by a brush pile. If you find a hole that a softball (or larger) could easily fit into, it’s a strong indicator of a groundhog or something of similar size. Multiple holes in the vicinity (main and escape holes) further strengthen the case for groundhogs.

• Excavated Soil “Porch”: As mentioned, groundhogs tend to leave a fan-shaped mound of soil at least at one entrance of their burrow. This mound can be quite conspicuous – think of it like seeing fresh tailings outside a mineshaft. Other critters like moles or voles also tunnel but usually leave smaller volcano-shaped mounds or raised tunnel ridges, not big messy piles like a groundhog does. So a messy mound of dirt against your house or in the field is a groundhog calling card.

• Chewed or Missing Vegetation: If entire plants (especially vegetables) are disappearing or getting toppled, that’s a clue. Groundhogs have no problem snapping thick stems. You might see stubs of plants with the tops chewed off and large bites taken out of produce. Unlike deer that usually leave ragged edges, groundhog feeding often leaves cleaner cuts because of those sharp incisors. Also, groundhogs often eat right at the plant and may even sit there chowing down, so sometimes part of the plant is trampled or flattened by their plump behind. If your garden looks like someone took a weed-whacker to it in random spots, and you also find those holes, you’re likely dealing with a woodchuck. They love many garden plants that homeowners in the Southeast grow, from tomatoes and beans to cucumbers and melons – so look for damage in those areas in particular. Sudden damage to many different types of plants in a concentrated area is a red flag.

• Tracks and Droppings: Groundhog tracks aren’t as commonly seen as, say, raccoon handprints, but if the ground is soft you might notice them. They have four toes on the front paws and five on the back, and their tracks can resemble a small barefooted possum or even a small dog’s tracks, with claws visible. More telling might be their droppings: groundhog scat is dark brown or black, oval-shaped or chunky, and often found near the burrow entrance or in a latrine chamber if you ever excavated one (not that we recommend that!). You might rarely see droppings in the open; they usually do their business underground or in a hidden spot. So this sign is less obvious, but if you find mystery poop near a hole, it could be from a groundhog (it’s usually bigger than rabbit pellets and not as elongated as deer scat).

• Noises – Whistling and Chattering: If you’re sitting on your porch in the evening and hear a sharp whistle followed by a twittering sound, that’s likely a groundhog sounding the alarm. They also make low barks, chucks, or grunts at times. Most of us won’t identify a groundhog by sound alone, but those who have a resident whistle pig often come to recognize the peculiar whistle sound they make when startled or mating. It’s like a high-pitched tweet or squeal. So if you hear odd whistles and then see a fat brown furball scurrying away – case closed.

• Sightings of the Culprit: This might seem obvious, but actually seeing the groundhog itself is pretty solid evidence! Groundhogs are usually seen during daylight, often in early morning or late afternoon, standing on their hind legs or waddling through the yard. If you spot one, even briefly, and then later notice damage, you know who did it. Sometimes neighbors might see it even if you don’t, so it’s worth asking around (“Anyone else see a giant gopher thing in the yard, or am I going crazy?”). In the Southeast, groundhogs have brown to greyish fur with a slight white frosting on the tips, and a blunt face – so make sure you’re not confusing it with a beaver (which is much larger and has a flat tail) or a nutria (which tends to be in wetlands).

Recognizing the signs early can help you take action before one groundhog turns into a family of them or before major damage is done. Once you’ve confirmed you have a groundhog problem, it’s time to consider how to evict or deter this burrowing bandit.

Groundhog Hotspots: Most Susceptible Areas Around Your Home

Knowing where groundhogs love to live or lurk can help you prevent problems. These animals are strategic about setting up their homes. Here are the areas around a typical Southeastern home or yard that are most susceptible to groundhog activity:

• Under Sheds, Decks, and Porches: If there’s one thing groundhogs adore, it’s a nice covered area to dig a burrow. The shaded, dry ground under a shed or wooden deck is prime real estate. It offers protection from rain and a sturdy “ceiling” for their burrow. If your shed has a gap underneath or your deck is open at the bottom, a groundhog might see that as an invitation. You’ll often find burrow holes popping up along the perimeter of these structures. Check the corners of sheds or the edges of crawlspaces for holes – groundhogs often start digging just outside and then get underneath.

• Garden Beds and Orchards: Your vegetable garden or fruit tree grove is basically a groundhog cafeteria. They might burrow nearby to stay close to the food source. Look for holes at the base of garden fences, or along the edge of a garden plot. In orchards or areas with young trees, groundhogs might burrow near stone walls or brush piles and then venture out to gnaw on the trees. In the Southeast, if you have a nice garden with juicy produce, consider it high-risk unless properly protected.

• Fence Lines and Hedge Rows: Groundhogs like a bit of cover when coming and going. A fence line with dense vegetation or a line of hedges provides concealment. They may dig burrows right next to or even under fences (sometimes inadvertently undermining the fence in the process). That brushy fence row at the back of your property where the wild blackberries grow unchecked? Perfect spot for a groundhog den. It’s the transition zone between open and covered that they find ideal.

• Stone Piles, Wood Piles, and Retaining Walls: Any accumulation of debris or materials can be attractive. An old wood pile that isn’t frequently disturbed or a stack of rocks can provide a ready-made hideout. Groundhogs have been known to dig along the edges of retaining walls or under rock gardens, exploiting any gaps. Even an unused crawl space or old foundation from a demolished structure could become a groundhog haven. In the Southeast, where farming is common, groundhogs also favor old farm equipment left in fields or brush – they’ll dig near an old tractor in the weeds, for example.

• Areas with Dense Weeds or Brush: If part of your yard has gone wild (don’t worry, it happens to the best of us, especially out in the country), that area could conceal a groundhog burrow. Tall grass, kudzu patches, thick weeds – these offer cover. Groundhogs often place their secondary exits in such spots, popping out into thick cover where predators can’t easily follow. So that thicket of privet or wild honeysuckle at the back corner of your lot might be where a groundhog sneaks in and out.

Essentially, any place that offers a mix of concealment and nearby food is susceptible. Southeastern yards with their lush growth can be attractive if not well-managed. The key is to be vigilant about these spots. If you can eliminate some of the appeal (we’ll discuss how in the next section), you can reduce the chance of a groundhog setting up shop.

DIY Methods for Deterring Groundhogs

So you’ve got a groundhog problem – what can you, as a homeowner, do about it? There are several do-it-yourself (DIY) methods to discourage or evict groundhogs from your property. Keep in mind, groundhogs are persistent and fairly clever (for rodents, anyway), so a combination of methods often works best. Also, humor and hope aside, results can vary – but it’s worth trying these humane deterrence techniques before calling in the big guns.

1. Exclusion Fencing: One of the most effective long-term solutions is to put up a physical barrier that groundhogs can’t easily get through or under. If you’re protecting a garden or particular area, install a metal wire fence (mesh or heavy chicken wire) at least 3-4 feet high above ground. Bury the fence at least 12 inches deep into the ground, and crucially, bend the bottom 8-10 inches outward in an L-shape away from the garden. This creates an underground shelf that stops the groundhog from digging under the fence – when it hits the wire barrier a foot down, it doesn’t know to back up a foot and dig again. Also, angle the top of the fence outward or leave it a bit wobbly. Groundhogs can climb, but they’re less likely to scale a fence that bends outward (45 degrees is ideal) or one that isn’t rigid. You can even add a floppy top section that bends if they try to climb. It sounds like you’re building Fort Knox for a garden, but these measures truly help. Make sure the gate (if any) is also secure at the bottom – groundhogs will find any gap. While fencing requires some effort and expense, it’s a one-time investment that can save a lot of headaches (and lettuce). Just check it periodically for holes or rust.

2. Remove Attractants (Habitat Modification): Groundhogs are around because something is appealing – usually food or shelter. Take a critical look at your yard and try to make it less hospitable for them. For example:

• Clean up brush piles, debris, and tall weeds. By removing the “cover” that groundhogs use for safety, you make them more exposed. A groundhog in a wide-open lawn is a nervous groundhog (hawks overhead, you know). Keep grass near problem areas trimmed. Clear out undergrowth along fences. If you’ve got open space between the woods and your yard, maintaining a mowed, vegetation-free buffer can discourage them (they don’t like to venture too far from cover).

• Harvest your garden promptly and consider picking fruits/veggies as soon as they ripen. Fallen fruit or overripe veggies sitting around are a free snack invitation. If possible, relocate especially tasty plants (like those legumes and cabbages groundhogs love) to a raised bed or closer to the house where the groundhog might feel less safe. Or surround them with plants groundhogs dislike (some people claim they avoid the smell of mint, garlic, or daffodils – your mileage may vary).

• Secure garbage and pet food. Groundhogs usually eat plants, but they aren’t above sampling leftover cat food on the porch or rummaging in compost if it smells yummy. Use secure cans and compost bins that are animal-proof.

By reducing food smells and hiding places, you make your property less attractive. Think of it as gently saying to the groundhog, “There’s nothing to see here, move along.”

3. Scare Tactics (Harassment): There are a host of deterrents marketed to scare animals away – flashy pinwheels, scarecrows, ultrasonic noise makers, motion-activated sprinklers, you name it. For groundhogs, visual and audio harassment can sometimes provide temporary relief. You could try:

• Scarecrows or predator decoys: Owls, coyotes, or even a cut-out of a human figure might spook them initially. Some people move a plastic owl around to keep critters guessing.

• Noise and vibration: Wind chimes, radios left playing outside, ultrasonic pest devices, or even staking some spinning pinwheels in the ground (the vibration in the soil can bother burrowing animals).

• Motion-activated sprinklers or lights: A sudden spray of water or floodlight at night (though groundhogs are day active, a light might catch them at dusk) can send them running.

The catch: groundhogs are smart and get used to these tricks quickly. They might be scared the first few times, but they’ll soon realize that plastic owl isn’t actually going to swoop down, or that the loud noise has no real consequence. This learning process (called habituation) means these methods often lose effectiveness after a couple of weeks. To prolong the fear factor, you need to change it up frequently – move decoys around, alternate noise with water, etc., to keep them on their toes. Even then, don’t expect miracles. Use this as a supplementary measure, not your main plan.

4. Repellents: Various repellent substances can be used to make your garden less enticing. These come in granular or liquid forms, usually containing things groundhogs find disgusting to taste or smell. Common active ingredients include capsaicin (hot pepper extract), black pepper, garlic, or predator urines (like fox or coyote urine). You can buy commercial products to sprinkle or spray around the perimeter of your garden or near burrow entrances. Some DIY folks even swear by home remedies like pouring used cat litter clumps down the hole (the smell of a predator), rags soaked in ammonia, or garlic and hot pepper solutions sprayed on plants. The idea is to create an odor or taste that says “yuck” to the groundhog.

Keep in mind: repellents usually offer short-term, temporary relief. Rain can wash them away, and bold groundhogs might simply ignore them if hungry enough. If you go this route, reapply frequently (especially after rainfall) and follow product instructions for safety (especially if using in a vegetable garden – make sure it’s labeled for edibles if you spray near your kale). Predator urine granules can sometimes help convince a groundhog that a big bad fox is in the neighborhood, but again, the effect may wear off. Think of repellents as putting up a “bad tasting boundary” – it might deter them long enough for you to implement a more permanent solution, but it’s rarely a standalone fix.

5. Humane Traps (DIY Caution): Some homeowners attempt to live-trap the groundhog using a cage trap baited with apples, vegetables, or peanut butter. This can be effective if you do it right – groundhogs aren’t particularly trap-shy. However, check your local laws before trapping. In many Southeastern states, groundhogs are considered nuisance wildlife and you are allowed to trap them on your property, but there may be rules about releasing them. In some places, it’s illegal to relocate a groundhog to a new area (because of disease concerns like rabies), so you might be required to euthanize it or turn it over to animal control. Also, a trapped groundhog is a frightened, strong animal – approaching a cage can be risky if you’re not experienced. They can scratch or bite if threatened. If you do trap one, plan ahead for how you’ll deal with it. Relocation should be at least 5-10 miles away (if legal) in a rural area with permission, otherwise the groundhog might just find its way to someone else’s backyard (or back to yours). Given the complexities, many folks opt to leave trapping to professionals.

6. Fill in Burrows (Carefully): Once you’re pretty sure a burrow has been vacated – say you drove the groundhog out with other methods or you suspect it moved on – you can fill the hole to prevent reuse. The best practice is to fill it with gravel or rock first (something difficult to dig through), then top with soil. Don’t just cover a burrow while the animal is still inside; it will either dig out (best case) or die and create a whole new problem (worst case). One trick is to loosely cover a burrow entrance with straw or crumpled newspaper for a few days. If it remains undisturbed, the groundhog might have left and it’s safe to fill. If it’s pushed aside, the critter is still home and you need another eviction plan.

Using these DIY methods, many homeowners in the Southeast manage to coexist or at least continually chase away groundhogs. The key is persistence and combining strategies. However, sometimes despite your best efforts, the groundhogs win the battle of wits and wills. That’s when it may be time to call in reinforcements.

Professional Solutions: When to Call in the Experts

If your groundhog situation has gone above your pay grade (figuratively speaking), or you simply don’t have the time or desire to play Elmer Fudd with a whistle pig, hiring a professional wildlife control operator is a smart move. Here’s what to consider and what to expect from the pros:

Choosing a Qualified Professional: In the Southeast, there are many pest and wildlife control companies that handle groundhogs (sometimes listed under “nuisance wildlife removal”). Look for companies or individuals who are licensed and insured for wildlife control in your state – most states require a special permit to trap and remove wildlife. A good pro will have this paperwork and plenty of experience with groundhogs. Check for certifications or memberships in organizations like the National Wildlife Control Operators Association (NWCOA), or ask for referrals from neighbors or local animal control. It’s not rude to interview the company a bit: ask how they handle groundhogs, whether they use humane practices, and if they will also repair the damage or close up burrows after removal. Reputable operators will be transparent about their methods and likely give an on-site assessment before quoting a pricehumanesociety.orghumanesociety.org.

What Pros Do (Techniques): A professional will typically perform a thorough inspection of your property to identify all groundhog burrows, travel paths, and attractants. They’ve seen it all, so they know where to look (perhaps that burrow under your porch has a second entrance in the brush 20 yards away – they’ll find it). Based on the situation, they may employ several strategies:

• Humane Trapping and Removal: This is often the go-to. They will set sturdy live traps (usually steel cage traps) at strategic locations, bait them effectively (they know the groundhog’s favorite meals), and check them frequently. Once the groundhog is caught, they handle the removal. Depending on local regulations and company policy, the groundhog may be relocated to a safe area or humanely euthanized. Many Southeastern wildlife pros opt for relocation when possible, taking the animal far enough away that it won’t return (and to suitable habitat). They do this safely and humanely, sparing you the stress of dealing with a cranky captive groundhog.

• Exclusion and Habitat Modification: The job isn’t done when the animal is gone. Professionals will usually groundhog-proof the site to prevent new ones from moving in. This can include installing underground barriers or screens around sheds and decks, repairing holes in foundations, and advising you on or even performing yard modifications (like removing that brush pile or installing fencing around a garden). Some companies will even dig a trench and place L-shaped wire mesh (like the fence technique) around the problem area as a permanent exclusion. They may also fill in burrows and smooth out the yard, so it’s like the groundhog was never there (minus your missing carrots).

• Scare and Repellent Measures: Pros have access to certain products like gas cartridges or fumigants for burrows (which essentially smoke out or suffocate the animal) – but those are generally last-resort and must be done with extreme caution and usually under specific legal allowances. In a residential area, they might avoid these for safety. More commonly, if needed, they might use one-way doors on burrow entrances (letting the groundhog out but not back in, if young ones aren’t present), or apply commercial-grade repellents. However, many pros will tell you that killing or chemicals are not first choices – integrated pest management is the name of the game, meaning they combine trapping with habitat fixes.

• Follow-up and Guarantee: A quality wildlife control service may offer a guarantee period – for example, if groundhogs return to the same spot within a certain time frame, they’ll come back and handle it without extra charge. They should also provide you with tips to reduce future issues. Since groundhogs are all over the Southeast, there’s always a chance a new one will wander in next season. Professionals aim to not only remove the current pest but also make your property less inviting for the next wandering woodchuck.

Cost and Considerations: Professional removal will cost more than a DIY approach, of course, but it’s often worth it for the expertise and time saved. Prices can vary based on how many burrows or groundhogs are involved, and what exclusion work is done. When comparing services, consider that the cheapest quote isn’t always best – you want the job done right and ethically. A pro using a safe and humane approach and doing a thorough job might charge a bit more, but they’re also more likely to solve the problem fully. Be wary of anyone who promises to simply “shoot them all” or use poisons without discussing the consequences – that can be unsafe and sometimes illegal in suburban environments. Always ensure they plan to address the root cause, not just remove the animal and call it a day.

Bringing in professionals can be a relief: it’s like having a personal groundhog bouncer for your yard. They handle the dirty work, you get to enjoy your yard again, and the groundhogs (hopefully) move out to wilder pastures.

Conclusion

Dealing with groundhogs in the Southeast is a bit of a rite of passage for many homeowners – one day you’re minding your own business, the next you’re googling “how do I evict a woodchuck”. The key is understanding these critters: they’re just doing what comes naturally (digging burrows and feasting on your foliage), but that natural behavior can clash with our landscaping dreams and even our home’s structure. By knowing their biology, habits, and the signs they leave behind, you can stay one step ahead of Mr. Groundhog.

Remember to start with preventive measures and humane deterrents whenever possible. Sometimes a little fence here and a little yard cleanup there can save a lot of hassle. Keep a sense of humor about it – picture the groundhog as that quirky neighbor who throws loud parties (digs big holes) and eats all your salad. You can outsmart him with some effort. But if it starts to feel like the groundhog is actually outsmarting you (it’s okay, it happens to the best of us), don’t hesitate to call in a professional who can safely and effectively resolve the issue.

In true Southern fashion, we can appreciate the wildlife around us – even chuckle at the idea of a groundhog predicting the end of winter – but we also know when it’s time to kindly show that critter the door. With the tips in this guide, your yard and garden will be yours to enjoy, without unwelcome underground renovations or midnight veggie heists. Stay vigilant, stay informed, and may your groundhog days be numbered (in a good way)!